Priming
This important step seals the surface prior to painting, thereby prolonging the wet edge of finish coats, reducing the incidence of lap marks, and ensuring uniformity in color and luster.
A common myth is that walls, which have been painted many times, do not need priming. On the contrary, many layers of latex paint can actually result in a very absorbent surface that requires priming.
Sash, trim, and doors already coated with an enamel finish do not ordinarily require priming. (Remember, sand glossy areas to a dull finish.) However, if extensive repair work has been performed, a primer should be applied.
Faux Finishes
Why have a bare ordinary wall when you can have the appearance of texture, gradated colors or grain?
Faux finishing, through specialized painting techniques, creates the illusion of texture - and it's easy enough to do that the average homeowner can apply it in their own home with fewer struggles than you might think!
Through using simple tools like rags, sponges, cheesecloth, and hand applied brush techniques; you can produce unique effects that leave virtually no trace of your tools. Faux finishes can be applied on a variety of surfaces including drywall, plaster or wood - just follow the regular rules of preparation for painting and take care to start with the best possible surface.
Express your personality through any of the faux finishes, and have fun!
HOW TO ACHIEVE THE LOOK OF ITALIAN PLASTER:
PREP - Walls must be in good condition. We fill, sand and seal any damage and clean dirty walls with water and TSR If necessary prime and basecoat with latex paint tinted to match the plaster base and dry overnight.
STEP 1 - Rialto Stucco Antic can be tinted with universal colorants. The plaster is thick and dries very fast. Using a stainless steel scraper sanded to a fine edge, starting at the ceiling and drags a thin amount covering the entire wall surface.
STEP 2 - After coating the entire room we add a second coat. Applying a little more plaster and keeping the scraper almost flat to the wall surface.
STEP 3 - When it?s dry we sand it very lightly with 600 grit sand papers just to remove the grit or ridges. We don?t remove the fine texture..
STEP 4 - Monochromatic both coats are the same color and then burnished. (Burnishing is to polish by rubbing with the scraper) A thin topcoat is required to bring out a uniform shine.
STEP 5- Adding extra color can be achieved by using two colors; the base coat is one color and the 2nd coat is another color. We apply very thin amounts with the scraper.
STEP 6 - The second way of adding another color is to use a lighter or darker color over the 1st coat.
STEP 7 - The surface can be burnished to a smooth silky finish by, again, using the scraper almost flat to the surface but rubbing very rapidly. The heat will make the shine.
HOW TO RAG ROLL:
STEP 1 - Tear clean soft cotton into 12" squares. Dip into paint diluted 50% with water or use waterborne glaze of 5 parts glaze to 1 part paint. Squeeze paint through and twist cotton into a soft 6" roll. Starting at the ceiling, gently roll the cotton, changing the twist in the fabric often to avoid repeat prints. Replenish the paint, squeeze and re-twist when the pattern fades.
STEP 2 - Repeat rolling the pattern over the first colour, filing in the spaces. Use saturated rags to softly pat in the corners and near the ceiling and baseboard.
STEP 3 - Repeat rolling the pattern over the first two colours, and, again filling in the corners, near the ceiling and baseboard. Any areas with unattractive prints or too much paint can be softened with a damp rag or patted with the basecoat colour on a rag. Use a brush to blend the any excess glaze in the corners.
HOW TO GET THE EFFECTS OF LEATHER LUXURY:
STEP 1 - Mix the premixed speckle with an eggshell latex paint like Private EstateTM . Four parts speckle to 1 part paint to obtain a thick cream-like consistency. Apply over just about any surface with a 2" paint brush (preferably old). Use a sharp dabbing motion to create a wavelike pattern. When dry, gently sand with 400-600 grit sandpaper to just remove the girt not the texture. Remove the dust.
STEP 2 - Apply the glaze in small areas.
STEP 3 - Use a chamois to remove the paint from the surface of the texture.
STEP 4 - Using a pre-cut stencil applies to the surface and using
another colour dab on to the stencil area.
STEP 5 - Highlight with a pencil line for a sharper outline
HOW TO TISSUE PRINT:
STEP 1 - Tape the ceiling, baseboard and moulding etc. Use low tack tape such as "Kleen Edge" in the corners and work on opposite walls. A slow drying glaze, such as "Wet Edge Plus" must be used to prevent dark areas in overlapping sections. A low nap or sponge roller is used to spread the glaze mixture. Mix five parts glaze to one part paint. Apply the mixture into the corners and as close to the ceiling as possible, spreading into these areas with a small brush.
STEP 2 ~ Pre-cut kraft or butcher paper to the length of your wall plus 30% extra. Create extra lengths in case you run short. The paper lengths should be crumpled prior to applying the glaze. Stand on a ladder and press the paper up to the ceiling edge and into the corners. Press the paper down the wall with open palms. Any areas not pressed down will not print.
STEP 3 - The second person should roll the next wall section slightly overlapping the first. if areas are too bland or too different take a small wad of crumpled paper and press into these spots. Check the ceiling and corner areas. Do not stop until the wall is complete. Use smaller pieces for above door etc. How we achieve the look of Tile Effects:
STEP 1 - Decide on the size and shape of the block. Begin by marking the horizontal lines with a chalk line. Create a cardboard block, place it between the horizontal lines and start marking off the vertical lines with a pencil. Using 1/4" green painters tape, begin taping off all the lines placing the masking tape to the side of the markings. Once the masking is completed, use a utility knife or blade to cut away any excess tape. This will give you precise grout lines.
STEP 2 - Using a Whiz Roller, roll the plaster onto the wall. Start from the top and work downward. Once you have applied and rolled the Stone FX over an area of 4' x 4', take the trowel and skim it over the plaster at a 35 degree angle. Drag the trowel horizontally and vertically. Stone FX can be applied in thin amounts. The creation of ridges and cavities is ideal for this wall treatment.
STEP 3 - Remove the tape.
STEP 4 - Mix the desired paint colour with Wet Edge Plus. For a more transparent finish, use a 4 to 1 ratio such as 4 parts Wet Edge Plus to one part paint. For more contract and opaque finish mix a 2 to 1 ratio. The sample was created using a 3 to 1 ratio. Using a Whiz roller apply the first glaze in a 2' x 2' diameter.
STEP 5 - With a damp cloth, create the desired texture by removing any excess glaze and by also moving the glaze around on the surface. Once again, start from the top of the wall working acros and downwards. Allow to dry completely. Additional glazes were applied very thinly and washed over the entire surfaces using a damp cloth. Allow each glaze to dry completely.
STEP 6 - Apply the desired stencil to the surface using adjustable stencil adhesive and tape. Load up the roller and remove excess by rolling onto paper towels. Apply the stencil paint with a stencil roller only through the stencil.
STEP 7 - Clear coat the surface for extra durability and protection.
Sponging
Sponging is an easy technique if you have never faux finished before. Create the look of stone, sandstone or granite and transform your room into the look of historical 14th Century Europe. Choose the colours you want and enjoy a professional looking result with your first project.
BASE COAT: Flat or eggshell latex paint with enough paint for 2 coats in your grout color.
GLAZE: Colors can be any finish of latex paint thinned with 50% water or 6 parts glaze with 1 part latex paint. Recommended with 3 or 4 colors.
VARNISH: Not necessary but flat water-based if used.
HOW TO SPONGE:
PREP - We apply 2 coats of latex paint with a roller and/or brush in your grout color. Allowing it to dry for 5 days to thoroughly harden the surface.
STEP 1 - Deciding on the size of blocks. Drawing a light pencil mark across the horizontal. Taping at the bottom edge of pencil line.
STEP 2 - Using a chalk less plum line and measuring from the center of each block, wrapping around the corners of the walls if necessary.
STEP 3 - Using tape run it along the inside of the vertical lines breaking the tape off at the horizontal tapelines. Rub the tape edges flat.
STEP 4 - Mixing 6 parts glaze to 1 part latex paint for a more translucent look. Rinse the sponge thoroughly and squeeze out the water. Saturate the sponge with the darkest paint color, wringing out and pat dry onto a paper towel until you get a soft cloudy impression. Press on to the wall softly, turning the sponge in the air between applications to avoid an identical print pattern. Break off small pieces of the sponge to use in the corners.
STEP 5 - Dilute the medium color paint and using a clean sponge applying randomly.
STEP 6 - Dilute the lightest color paint and using a clean sponge apply randomly as a highlight, blending into the other colors to ensure that they gently flow together. Stand back and check for your desired look.
HOW TO ACHIEVE THE LOOK OF SOFT SUEDE:
PREP - A water-based glaze with a long open-time like "Wet Edge Plus' is essential for a great suede finish. Mixing six parts of glaze to an eggshell or semi-gloss latex paint mixed to match the over tone desired. It will appear lighter after being applied. Using low tack tape on corners and apply on opposite walls, re-taping alternate walls after drying overnight.
STEP 1 - Starting at the ceiling apply with a large top quality soft brush and apply to a square meter area at one time. Use a crises-cross or overlapping rainbow stroke.
STEP 2 - Using soft bunches of cheesecloth to fade out the edges side and bottom. Then pat ceiling to edge turning the cheesecloth often. Change the cloth when saturated.
Silk Moire
Create luscious moire (watermarked) silk on your walls in a sensuous jewel-tone or air pastel. Sophisticated and refined, you can imitate fine fabric with the ease and durability of paint.
What you will need.....
BASE COAT: Latex flat or eggshell finishes.
GLAZE: Wet Edge Plus for a long open-time. (45 minutes)
VARNISH: Water-based Diamond Elite in satin or gloss.
HOW WE SILK MOIRE:
STEP 1 - Applying dark base coat. If the base coat is a very dark color, 2 or 3 coats may be required.
STEP 2 - Mixing Wet Edge Plus glaze; glaze to eggshell latex. Applying an even coat of glaze to the surface with a roller or brush in a 2-foot wide strip.
STEP 3 - Draging the graining tool vertically through the wet glaze. Start at one edge, working down in one continuous motion as we slide and rock the tool. Rocking the tool creates the watermark effect.
STEP 4- Lightly "dusting" a badger-hair brush horizontally across the surface when the glaze has partially dried. This simulates the crosswise grain of moire fabric
STEP 5 - Varnish with water-based Flecto Diamond Elite in satin or gloss.
Relief Stenciling
Breathe fresh life into tired, boring surfaces. Creating an impressive raised plaster image on walls, tiles, columns or even fireplaces. Evoking a feeling of old-world textures and sculptures.
BASE COAT: Walls should be clean and preferably smooth. The plaster will adhere to any sheen.
VARNISH: Not necessary.
How to achieve the look of Relief Stenciling:
STEP 1 - At arm's length, use spray glue to lightly spray the back of the stencil. Adhere to the area to be stenciled. If working on a vertical surface, it is also advisable to use some small pieces of tape to make sure the stencil doesn't move.
STEP 2 - If desired, tint Stucco Antico with a small amount of latex paint or universal tint. An effective look is to use some of your basecoat colour or a metallic such as Adicolor's Metal Series. Using the small metal scraper, apply a thick amount of plaster to a larger scraper. It is advisable to use a scraper the width of the cut-out in the stencil. Carefully drag the scraper over the stencil, making sure the scraper is as flat to the stencil as possible. If the layer of plaster appears too thick, carefully scrape off the excess.
STEP 3 - Carefully remove the stencil, taking care not to smudge the wet plaster. For an all-over single-stencil pattern, pre-measure the wall to determine how many stencil repeats will fit into the area and, with a chalk pencil, mark how you wish the stencils to be spaced.
STEP 4 - It is advisable to stencil every other imprint to prevent smudging of the wet plaster. Then, go back and fill in the blanks when the first stencils have completely dried.
TIPS - To create a "shadow," stencil in paint, then shift the stencil over slightly before applying plaster through the stencil. Practice on a piece of painted cardboard!
Color washing
Color Washing is a time honored method of applying diluted paint with a rough hand and a wide brush. A great solution for rough plaster badly patched, stippled or interior concrete surfaces.
HOW TO COLOR WASH:
PREP - Basecoat in metallic gold or 2 coats of a gold color such as "Cockatoo Gold" 7756N tinted in Private Estate Tm Latex. We ensure ceilings and baseboards securely tape. It is not necessary to tape corners. When the basecoat is very dry, dilute your main color with water to the consistency of cream or using a water-based glaze such as Wet Edge Plus, which has a long open-time.
STEP 1 - Using your main color of choice dilute, brush copious amounts leaving some base color to show through. For a one-color finish stop here.
STEP 2 - Surface should be dry prior to applying your next color. Using your next color of choice, brush copious amounts leaving some base color to show.
STEP 3 - Patting, the drips with cheesecloth, adding more color of choice by soaking the cheesecloth in the paint mixture and pressing the wet cloth into the wall.
STEP 4 - We allow drying. Scrubbing with a clean wet brush or cloth can alter areas.
Dragging
Which paint do we use?
Your base coat should be low-luster latex, such as Breeze Acrylic Latex. A latex glaze works well for dragging.
STEP 1 - If we are using the existing color base coat, we proceed to Step (2). Otherwise, we need to apply a base coat with a brush or roller and allow it to dry thoroughly
STEP 2 - Mixing, your wash/glaze. Applying over base coat in a vertical section, no wider than 20 inches using a roller or brush.
STEP 3 - Dragging the wide, natural bristle brush through the wet glazes immediately, working from top to bottom in a long, continuous stroke. Keeping the brush ridged.
STEP 4 - Wiping the paintbrush regularly on a clean and drying rag to remove excess glaze to ensure an even appearance.
STEP 5 - If softer lines are desired we us the softer, smaller brush to brush the surface lightly with continuous vertical strokes. Hint: This finish looks best using tone-on-tone colors, such as a white or beige base coat and blue or green glazes, but the combinations are limitless.
Crackle
Creating several crackle finishes from folk art and country charm to the more dramatic effect of cross hatch. Crackle is an effective decorative paint technique, which can transform kitchen cabinets, doors, furniture, spindles, fireplaces, crown moldings and home accessories
What do we need.....
BASE COAT: Flat or eggshell, latex.
GLAZE: Wet Edge Plus mixed with latex eggsh.
HOW TO CRACKLE:
STEP 1 - Applying the base color paint, which you want to show through as the cracks. When completely dry, applying A dicrackle with a whiz roller in an even direction. Allowing the A dicrackle to dry completely. For an even crackle finish, as A dicrackle begins to dry and becomes sticky, lightly roll over the surface again with a dry whiz roller to even out the surface. Dust particles and grit may adhere to the A dicrackle as it dries. Do not worry about this as the second layer of paint will cover up these imperfections.
STEP 2 - When the Adicrackle, is completely dry (approximately 3 hours) we apply the paint in one direction and evenly with a whiz roller. For best results, consistently reload the roller and work in small manageable areas.
OPTION 1- Soften the Crackle ~ Mix the desired paint colour with Wet Edge Plus. For a more transparent finish, use a 4 to 1 ratio such as 4 parts Wet Edge Plus to 1 part paint. For more contrast and opaque finish, mix a 2 to 1 ratio. The sample was created using a 3 to 1 ratio of Wet Edge Plus to paint. Using a whiz roller or a 4' wide stain brush, apply the glaze in a small manageable area.
OPTION 2- Protect the Surface ~ Clear coat the surface for durability and protection. Using Adicolor Dead Flat Varnish for a more natural look with no sheen. If a more luxurious finish is desired, clear coat the surface using Flecto Diamnond Elite latex varnish. This product is -gloss or gloss. | 
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